Discovering the grandeur of eastern Hokkaido: A journey to three scenic capes

1.Savoring a Kushiro ekiben as the world rolls by

One of the true pleasures of train travel is ekiben (railway station packed lunch), which are known for capturing local flavors and culture in a single meal and adding a special touch to every journey. Before boarding the train, stop by Seafood Shop SKIPP at Kushiro Station to pick up their famous ekiben—Sardine and Mackerel Hokkaburi Sushi.

Opening your ekiben, you will find eight pieces of sushi—four sardine and four mackerel—neatly arranged, each draped with a thin slice of sweet pickled daikon radish. The presentation is charming and when you pop a piece in your mouth, you will notice the rich umami of the fish, the bold tang of the vinegar, and the crisp texture of the daikon radish. Combining the delicious flavors of an ekiben with rich natural landscapes passing by the windows is a pleasure unique to train travel.

2.Cape Kiritappu: Finding comfort in playful sea otters and colorful blooms

After getting off at Hamanaka Station, head to your first cape—Cape Kiritappu. The journey begins with a guided tour through the expansive natural landscapes of the Kiritappu Wetland led by LandEdge, an outdoor guiding company based in Hamanaka Town. The company offers station pick up and drop off—an especially welcome service when traveling by train.

“Cape Kiritappu is all about sea otters and flowers,” says guide Mayuko Takayama. The waters around the cape are rich in marine life such as crabs and sea urchins, making it an ideal habitat for wild sea otters. Watching them dive into the water or carefully crack open shells is so heartwarming, it’s easy to lose track of time.

From June through September, flowers bloom one after another across the cape. Resilient blossoms sway in the sea breeze, their beauty and strength on display. “The best time to see Amur daylily here is from June to mid-July,” Ms. Takayama explains. “The sight of bright yellow flowers spreading across the landscape is truly breathtaking.” With well-maintained walking paths and observation decks, the area invites you to slow down and enjoy a leisurely stroll.

3.Cape Ochiishi: Discovering a solitary frontier, marked by a red-and-white lighthouse

The second cape on the journey is Cape Ochiishi. From Ochiishi Station, follow the Ochiishi-Misaki Path, which passes beyond the Ochiishi Fishing Port, following grass-covered trails and a boardwalk through a forest of Sakhalin spruce. The path gradually takes you from a townscape into the wilderness that wildlife call home.

Rising from a vast grassland stands the red and white Cape Ochiishi Lighthouse. A miraculously picturesque scene of contrasts awaits, with fresh green fields stretching outward, the sea rippling gently beyond, and the solitary lighthouse. Built in 1890, this historic lighthouse was painted red and white to remain visible during the snowy months. To guide local fishermen through the dense fog that often blankets these waters, the lighthouse was accompanied by a foghorn until around 2010. Knowing this history adds further depth to the view before you.

Continue past the lighthouse and you will reach the very tip of Cape Ochiishi. The dramatic scenery truly feels like the edge of the world—it is hard not to be captivated.

4.Indulging in Nemuro’s seafood bounty

On a journey that chases the coastline, indulging in fresh local seafood is a must. At Uncle & Tivoli, a Western-style restaurant in Nemuro, you’ll find a diverse menu showcasing locally sourced ingredients. One dish that immediately catches the eye is the Hanasaki Crab Cream Pasta.

The impressive dish is topped generously with vibrant Hanasaki crab, and with the first bite, the crab’s rich, sweet flavor fills your mouth. From charcoal-grilled seasonal seafood to deep fried kelp, there’s no shortage of tempting options. Take your time and savor the distinctive tastes of this seaside town.

5.Cape Nosappu: Welcoming Japan’s earliest sunrise at its easternmost tip

The final destination is Cape Nosappu, the easternmost tip of Japan’s mainland. Having travelled this far, it is worth rising early to witness the country’s earliest sunrise. Hop in a car and leave the streets of Nemuro—still shrouded in a sleepy hush—behind and turn onto a coastal road. As you make your way, the sky starts to brighten and shades of blue melt into orange above the sea. Drawing closer to the cape, the surroundings shift into open, untamed landscapes—even the changing scenery becomes part of the experience.